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Here, at Labastide-Saint-Pierre, reds, ros├ęs and whites aspire to the same thing: that the first glass should create the desire for a second. Wines that are gluggable, as they say these days, but we prefer to think of them as wholesome. Enjoying wine should be the most natural thing in the world, a self-evident pleasure, whether it be the most modest of bottles or the greatest of grand crus.

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